Free buyer checklist
Use the full YouInspect™ resale taxonomy to document what you can safely see before your licensed home inspection. It is a preparation tool—not an inspection report.
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11 inspection items
Is vegetation kept clear of the house?
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Why it matters: Vegetation contact with the structure can trap moisture and provide a pest access route.
Are nearby trees healthy and stable?
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Why it matters: A hazardous tree near the home is worth flagging before storm season, not after a limb falls.
Are plants — and sprinkler spray — kept off the siding, roof, and foundation?
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Why it matters: Plants and repeated sprinkler spray hold moisture against the house and invite rot and pests. Keeping a gap and aiming sprinklers away is simple upkeep worth noting.
Does the ground slope away from the foundation?
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Why it matters: Improper grading is one of the most common contributors to basement and crawlspace moisture.
Are drainage features (swales, drains) functioning?
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Why it matters: Functioning drainage features protect the foundation from water accumulation over time.
Does the ground slope away from the house, with no pooling against the foundation?
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Why it matters: Soil that carries water away from the foundation is one of the biggest factors in a dry, stable house. Low spots or a reverse slope against the wall are worth flagging before the next heavy rain.
What's the overall condition of the walkways?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
Are the walkway surfaces even, without lifted or sunken sections to catch a toe?
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Why it matters: Uneven walkway sections are a leading trip-and-fall hazard and a common liability point. They're easy to spot and usually straightforward to grind down or replace.
What's the overall condition of the driveway?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
Does the driveway shed water away from the house and garage, not toward them?
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Why it matters: A driveway that runs water toward the garage or foundation invites water intrusion and slab problems. Which way it drains is easy to read after a rain and expensive to ignore.
Is the visible foundation free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Visible structural damage should be flagged for a specialist rather than assessed further by the app.
Any signs of shifting or settling?
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Why it matters: Movement patterns help a structural engineer judge whether an issue is cosmetic or ongoing. Cracks that line up with sticking doors, sloping floors, or settling in the walkway or driveway are worth mentioning together, not as separate one-off notes.
Any signs of water intrusion or pest activity?
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Why it matters: Foundations are a common entry point for both water and pests, so this is worth flagging even if subtle.
Is there a visible gap between the siding and the soil, with brick weep holes and the slab edge not buried?
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Why it matters: Keeping soil a few inches below the siding and the weep holes clear lets the wall drain and dry and keeps moisture and pests out of the structure. Grade piled against the wall is a common, correctable cause of hidden moisture damage — worth a foundation pro's eye.
What's the overall condition of the exterior walls?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear.
Do the exterior walls keep a gap from the ground, roof line, and hard surfaces?
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Why it matters: Manufacturers generally call for a visible gap here (commonly a few inches from soil, and a couple inches from roofing and hard surfaces). Not keeping that gap can invite moisture and pest problems over time.
Are gaps around pipes, vents, or other openings sealed?
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Why it matters: An unsealed opening is a small, inexpensive fix now — and a path for water, insects, or rodents if left alone.
What's the overall condition of the trim?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
Are the trim joints and penetrations sealed against water?
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Why it matters: Trim joints are where wind-driven rain finds its way behind the wall. Fresh sealant at the seams is cheap upkeep that heads off hidden rot.
If you have a water pressure gauge, what does it read at this faucet?
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Why it matters: Water pressure outside the normal range affects the whole home, not just this faucet — a hose-bib reading is a quick, convenient way to check it. A screw-on gauge from a hardware store is inexpensive and reusable across every property you look at.
Does the faucet turn on and off, with water flowing freely?
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Why it matters: Turning the faucet on and off is the most basic check that it works — the valve opens, water flows at a normal rate, and it shuts back off. Weak flow or a handle that won't control the water points to a worn valve, a partly closed supply, or a problem further up the line worth having a plumber look at.
Is the hose bib free of visible corrosion or damage?
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Why it matters: Corrosion at fittings is often the earliest visible warning sign of a coming leak.
Any signs of leaking when on or off?
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Why it matters: Even a slow leak can cause significant hidden damage over months before it's noticed.
Is there a vacuum breaker in place?
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Why it matters: A vacuum breaker keeps water (and anything mixed into it, like from a hose sprayer) from being siphoned back into the home's drinking water. Simple to add if missing.
Is the faucet firmly attached to the wall, without wobbling when you turn the handle?
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Why it matters: The pipe this faucet feeds runs inside the wall, out of sight. A loose, wobbling faucet flexes that hidden pipe every time it's used, and a crack there can leak inside the wall for a long time before it shows. Re-securing a loose faucet is usually a quick, low-cost fix.
Does the faucet look protected against freezing, with no signs of past freeze damage?
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Why it matters: Water left in an outdoor faucet can freeze, split the pipe, and then flood the wall when it thaws — a hard lesson many Texas homes learned in the 2021 freeze. A 'frost-free' faucet drains itself; an older standard one needs an interior shutoff or an insulated cover before a hard freeze. Knowing which kind the home has tells you what you'll need to winterize.
Is the exterior lighting free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
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Why it matters: A functional failure here often points to a loose connection that a licensed electrician should trace.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
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Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Do the outdoor outlets have GFCI protection that trips and resets when you press Test?
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Why it matters: Outdoor receptacles get wet, so they're expected to be GFCI-protected against shock — either a Test/Reset outlet here or one upstream that covers them. A GFCI that won't trip or reset looks normal but no longer protects anyone, and it's an inexpensive fix worth flagging.
Does each outdoor outlet have an intact weatherproof cover that stays closed even with a cord plugged in?
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Why it matters: An outdoor outlet needs a cover that keeps rain out even with a cord plugged in — an 'in-use' bubble cover, not a flat lid that only seals when empty. A missing or broken cover lets water into the box, which is both a shock hazard and a quick, low-cost fix.
Are the outdoor outlets and their faceplates sound, with no damage or signs of overheating?
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Why it matters: Sun and weather make outdoor faceplates brittle, and a cracked plate or loose outlet can expose live parts. Scorching or a burning smell points to a wiring problem a licensed electrician should look at, not something to watch.
Is the exterior door free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.
Does the exterior door open, close, and latch properly?
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Why it matters: A door that doesn't operate smoothly often points to a settling frame or worn hardware. If more than one door in the house sticks the same way, it can also be worth mentioning alongside anything else you notice about the foundation.
Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?
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Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger energy and security issues if ignored.
9 inspection items
What should I look for?
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Why it matters: Damaged panels compromise insulation and security. Rot or rust can spread and lead to costly full-door replacement.
Does the opener raise and lower smoothly?
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Why it matters: A malfunctioning opener is a common repair item and can indicate worn gears or a failing motor.
Does the door reverse when it meets resistance?
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Why it matters: Auto-reverse is a critical safety feature. A failure here is a safety hazard, especially for households with kids or pets.
Is the seal intact along the bottom and sides?
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Why it matters: Worn weatherstripping lets in pests, water, and drafts, raising energy costs.
Does the emergency release cord work?
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Why it matters: The manual release is your fallback during a power outage or opener failure.
Are the tracks straight and rollers intact?
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Why it matters: Bent tracks or worn rollers cause premature door and opener wear.
Are the springs and cables free of damage?
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Why it matters: Springs and cables are under very high tension and are a well-documented serious injury hazard — this is one to flag for a professional, not adjust yourself.
Is the garage door opener free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
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Why it matters: A functional failure here often points to a loose connection that a licensed electrician should trace.
Are the sensors aligned and unobstructed?
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Why it matters: Misaligned sensors are a leading cause of door safety failures and are usually a quick, cheap fix.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
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Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Is the wall button mounted up high and where you can see the door?
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Why it matters: The wall button is meant to sit high — at least five feet up — and in clear view of the door, so a child can't run the door and no one operates it blind. A low or blind-spot button is a common, inexpensive thing to have relocated.
Is the opener and its rail fastened firmly overhead, not sagging or pulling loose?
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Why it matters: The opener and its rail hang overhead and take a hard pull every time the door runs. A unit sagging from the ceiling, or an arm pulling loose from the door, can eventually come down — it's usually a matter of re-securing the mounts before it gets worse.
Are the safety sensors mounted low near the floor and held firmly in place?
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Why it matters: The safety sensors only stop the door for a child or pet if they sit low — within about six inches of the floor — and stay put. This is separate from whether they're aligned: a sensor can be lined up but mounted too high to catch anyone. Missing, high, or loose sensors leave the door without its last line of protection.
From the floor, without opening the hatch or pulling down stairs, does the attic access appear intact and closed?
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Why it matters: A damaged or poorly sealed attic hatch can be an energy-loss or moisture clue. Record only what is visible from a stable finished floor.
From the floor only, is the area below the access opening unobstructed and visibly intact for future professional service?
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Why it matters: Visible access conditions help a future professional prepare. They are not an invitation to enter the attic during this buyer pre-screen.
Is the garage entry door free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.
Does the door close and latch on its own, without being pushed?
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Why it matters: This door is meant to slow fire and fumes from spreading from the garage into the home, so it's built to close itself. If it doesn't, that's worth asking about.
Does the door have a pet door or other cut-in opening?
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Why it matters: A cut-in opening can work against what this door is designed to do. Worth asking whether it was added after the door was installed.
Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?
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Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger issues if ignored.
Is the outlet free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
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Why it matters: A functional failure here often points to a loose connection that a licensed electrician should trace.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
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Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Do the garage outlets have GFCI protection — a Test/Reset outlet, or one upstream that covers them?
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Why it matters: Garage receptacles are damp-prone and are expected to be GFCI-protected to guard against shock. A missing or dead GFCI is a common, inexpensive electrical fix worth flagging.
Is the lighting free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
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Why it matters: A functional failure here often points to a loose connection that a licensed electrician should trace.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
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Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
What's the overall condition of the roof and ceiling?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
Look for
Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
What's the overall condition of the walls?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
Look for
Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
Is the window free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Fogged glass usually means a failed seal between panes, which only gets worse over time.
Does it open, close, and lock properly?
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Why it matters: Operable windows matter for everyday use, but in a bedroom they also matter for getting out during an emergency. A painted-shut or barred bedroom window with no quick-release is worth flagging clearly, not just noting as a maintenance item.
Are the seals and caulking intact?
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Why it matters: Failed seals are a leading cause of water intrusion and energy loss around openings.
Is this window within 18" of the floor, near a door, or near a tub/shower?
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Why it matters: Certain locations require tempered (safety) glass so it breaks into small, dull pieces instead of sharp shards if broken. Worth asking whether this pane is safety-rated if it's in one of these spots.
12 inspection items
What's the overall condition of the ceiling?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
Look for
Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
What's the overall condition of the wall?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
Look for
Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
Are floors free of significant damage?
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Why it matters: Flooring damage patterns can sometimes point to moisture issues underneath.
Do floors feel level and solid underfoot?
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Why it matters: Sloping or soft floors can indicate structural settling or subfloor damage worth a closer look — especially if it lines up with anything you noticed about the foundation.
Any signs of past or current moisture?
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Why it matters: Flooring is often where hidden moisture problems become visible first.
As you walk the floors, are they solid underfoot — no soft, springy, or bouncy spots?
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Why it matters: A soft or bouncy spot usually means the subfloor below has been weakened — commonly by a slow leak. Walking the floors and noting where they give is a simple check that points a pro to a hidden problem.
Is the interior door free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.
Does the interior door open, close, and latch properly?
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Why it matters: A door that doesn't operate smoothly often points to a settling frame or worn hardware. If more than one door in the house sticks the same way, it can also be worth mentioning alongside anything else you notice about the foundation.
Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?
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Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger energy and security issues if ignored.
Is the window free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Fogged glass usually means a failed seal between panes, which only gets worse over time.
Does it open, close, and lock properly?
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Why it matters: Operable windows matter for everyday use, but in a bedroom they also matter for getting out during an emergency. A painted-shut or barred bedroom window with no quick-release is worth flagging clearly, not just noting as a maintenance item.
Are the seals and caulking intact?
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Why it matters: Failed seals are a leading cause of water intrusion and energy loss around openings.
Is this window within 18" of the floor, near a door, or near a tub/shower?
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Why it matters: Certain locations require tempered (safety) glass so it breaks into small, dull pieces instead of sharp shards if broken. Worth asking whether this pane is safety-rated if it's in one of these spots.
Are stairs and railings solid and free of damage?
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Why it matters: Stair failures are a common source of household injury, making structural soundness a priority check.
Do railings meet basic safety expectations?
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Why it matters: A gap wider than about 4 inches between balusters is generally considered a hazard — it's roughly the threshold for whether a small child could fit through. This applies to both indoor stairs and outdoor decks or porches with railings.
Is the stairway adequately lit?
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Why it matters: Stairway lighting is a simple, low-cost factor that significantly affects fall risk.
Is the handrail graspable and continuous, with guard balusters spaced too narrow for a child to slip through?
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Why it matters: Graspable handrails and closely spaced balusters are core fall-safety features, especially for children. Wide gaps and short or wobbly rails are worth flagging.
Are cabinets free of significant damage?
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Why it matters: Water damage at the cabinet base often indicates a past or current plumbing leak nearby — this is exactly the kind of hidden leak that can go unnoticed longer than a visible drip, so it's worth a closer look at the plumbing underneath.
Do doors and drawers open and close properly?
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Why it matters: Function issues are usually minor, but worth noting for a buyer's overall impression of the kitchen.
Are the upper cabinets solidly attached to the wall, with no water damage under the sink?
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Why it matters: Loaded upper cabinets carry real weight, and the base cabinet under the sink is the first place a slow plumbing leak shows up. Both are easy to see and worth flagging early.
What's the overall condition of the countertop?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
Is the caulk sealed where the counter meets the sink and the backsplash?
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Why it matters: The caulk seams around a sink and backsplash are the counter's defense against water running into the cabinet and wall below. Failed seals are cheap to redo and a common source of hidden cabinet rot.
Are washer/dryer hookups present and in good condition?
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Why it matters: Hookup condition matters even when appliances themselves aren't included in the sale.
Is the dryer vent clear and properly terminated outside?
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Why it matters: Blocked or improperly vented dryers are a well-documented home fire risk.
Does the dryer vent end at an exterior hood with a flap that moves freely — and no lint screen over it?
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Why it matters: The exterior hood keeps out weather and pests while its flap lets exhaust escape; a screened, damaged, or lint-packed termination traps lint — a leading cause of dryer fires. If the vent ends in an attic, crawl space, or garage instead of outside, that's worth flagging for a professional.
Is the dryer duct smooth metal, intact, and connected all the way to the outside?
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Why it matters: Plastic and foil ducts and disconnected joints let lint and moist air escape into the house — both documented fire and mold risks. Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, connected end to end, is the safe setup.
Do the washer shut-off valves turn freely and stay dry, and can you reach them?
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Why it matters: Corroded valves and old rubber supply hoses are a leading cause of laundry-room flooding. A valve you can actually reach and fully close is your fastest way to stop a leak — so it's worth confirming they work and aren't buried.
Does the washer drain into a proper standpipe or drain, without backing up or overflowing?
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Why it matters: A washer dumps a lot of water fast, so it needs a real standpipe and trap to carry it away and keep sewer gas out. A drain that backs up or was rigged to the floor is a repeat-flooding and odor problem worth flagging.
Is the dryer's connection right for its type — a solid 240-volt outlet for an electric dryer, or a capped gas line with a shut-off for a gas dryer?
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Why it matters: Dryer circuits carry a heavy load and gas connections have to be leak-free, so a damaged outlet or an unshut-off gas line is a real fire or gas-safety concern. Note what you see and have an electrician or plumber confirm the connection — don't test a suspected gas leak yourself.
Is the laundry floor and surrounding area free of water damage — with a drain pan or floor drain if the laundry is upstairs?
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Why it matters: Laundry leaks often show up as floor or below-ceiling stains long before you spot the source. An upstairs laundry especially benefits from a drain pan, since a burst hose there can flood the rooms below.
Does the damper open and close fully?
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Why it matters: A damper that doesn't seal wastes energy; one that won't open is a safety and ventilation issue.
Is the firebox and liner free of damage?
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Why it matters: Firebox damage can allow heat to reach combustible materials behind the wall.
Does the hearth extend a reasonable distance out from the firebox opening?
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Why it matters: The hearth extension exists to catch embers a safe distance from anything flammable — a hearth that looks short for the opening size is worth asking about.
Is there a cap/spark arrestor, and proper clearance from combustibles?
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Why it matters: A missing cap lets in water and animals; clearance issues are a leading cause of chimney-related house fires. Either way, this is a good one to have a chimney professional confirm rather than relying on a photo alone.
What's the overall condition of the living area?
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Why it matters: A general condition pass helps catch anything that warrants closer attention in this room.
Do outlets and switches appear to be in good condition?
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Why it matters: Basic electrical checks in living spaces are quick and catch common day-to-day safety issues.
Do the windows and doors in living and sleeping areas open, close, and offer a way out?
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Why it matters: Every bedroom needs a window or door that opens as an emergency exit. Blocked or painted-shut openings are a real safety concern that's simple to notice room to room.
Is the sink basin sound and securely mounted?
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Why it matters: A cracked basin or a sink pulling loose lets water reach the counter and the cabinet below, where damage stays hidden until it's costly. The caulk seal at the counter edge is a cheap fix that heads off exactly that.
Does the faucet — and the sprayer, if there is one — run, shut off, and stay leak-free?
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Why it matters: A faucet that drips when off wastes water around the clock, and a leak at the base can run behind the sink unnoticed. Low pressure at just this fixture usually points to the fixture itself; low pressure throughout the home points to something bigger worth asking about.
Does the sink drain well, and do the stopper and the shutoff valves work?
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Why it matters: Slow drainage can be a simple clog or a venting problem further down the line. Working shutoff valves under the sink matter more than they seem — without them, fixing any leak here means shutting off water to the whole house.
With the cabinet doors open, are there any leaks or water damage underneath?
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Why it matters: The cabinet under the sink is where kitchen leaks show up first — and a leak behind a closed door can run for months before anyone notices. It's worth actually opening the doors and looking at the base and the trap.
4 inspection items
From a safe attic-access opening, do the rafters, trusses, and joists appear sound and undamaged?
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Why it matters: The framing is what holds the roof and attic up, so cracked, burned, or rotted members are a real structural concern. Record what you can see from the access opening and leave the diagnosis to a licensed inspector or structural engineer — there's no need to climb in for a closer look.
Are the structural members free of cut, notched, or altered pieces?
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Why it matters: Engineered trusses are designed to work as a whole — cutting or notching even one member can weaken the entire assembly, and it's a common DIY mistake. Any altered truss is worth a professional's review before you count on it.
Does the framing look straight and well-connected, without sagging or separation?
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Why it matters: Sagging or connections pulling apart can point to overloading, past water damage, or a failing joint — the kind of movement that tends to get worse over time. It's worth flagging early for a structural evaluation.
Does the decking appear straight, without sagging?
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Why it matters: Sagging decking can indicate long-term water damage or structural overloading.
Any staining or signs of rot on the underside?
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Why it matters: Staining on the decking is often the earliest visible sign of a roof leak from above. Seeing daylight through the deck is about as clear a sign as there is — the same gap that lets light in can also let water and pests in.
Are there visible nail pops or protrusions?
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Why it matters: Nail pops are usually cosmetic but can eventually work through the roofing material above.
From a safe attic-access opening, do you see any daylight or gaps through the roof decking?
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Why it matters: Daylight coming through the decking means an open path for water and a likely active leak — one of the clearest signs to have a roofer look before the next rain. Record what's visible from the opening, and do not step into the attic.
Is insulation an appropriate type and depth for the climate?
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Why it matters: Insulation depth has a direct, measurable impact on the home's energy costs. Thin insulation alone isn't a defect the way a leak is — it's more of a place you could save money over time, not something urgent.
Is coverage even, without significant gaps?
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Why it matters: Gaps in coverage create thermal bridges that undercut the insulation's effectiveness. Insulation blocking a soffit vent is worth calling out on its own — it can trap heat and moisture in the attic even if the insulation itself looks fine.
Any signs of moisture damage or compression?
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Why it matters: Wet insulation loses most of its effectiveness and can become a mold source.
Is fireblocking material present and intact where walls meet the attic?
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Why it matters: Fireblocking slows fire from spreading quickly through hidden wall and attic cavities — easy to miss since it's usually out of sight.
From the access opening, are the gaps where wiring, pipes, or flues pass through framing sealed?
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Why it matters: Fireblocking closes the hidden gaps that would otherwise let fire and smoke travel between floors and walls. Record what you can see from the access opening — no need to enter the attic.
Above an attached garage, does the wall or ceiling separating it from the house look continuous and intact?
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Why it matters: The wall and ceiling between an attached garage and the house are meant to slow fire and fumes from reaching living space. A visible gap there is worth a professional's look.
7 inspection items
What condition is the roof covering in overall, and what type is it?
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Why it matters: Material condition is the clearest indicator of how much service life the roof has left, and different roof types age and fail in different ways — noting the type helps set expectations.
Any significant granule loss (for shingles)?
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Why it matters: Granule loss accelerates aging and reduces the roof's protection from UV and water.
Any missing, lifted, or damaged sections?
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Why it matters: Missing or lifted sections are active entry points for water and should be addressed promptly. A crack near a tile corner alone is common on tile roofs and usually not a concern by itself — it's multiple cracks, or cracks combined with other issues, that's worth a closer look.
Does the installation look proper (single layer, etc.)?
Look for
Why it matters: Multiple roofing layers can hide problems and affect how repairs or replacement are priced.
Is the flashing free of rust, gaps, or damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Flashing failures are one of the most common sources of roof leaks, even on an otherwise good roof.
Is sealant at joints intact?
Look for
Why it matters: Deteriorated sealant at flashing joints is a quick, inexpensive fix that prevents bigger leaks.
Does flashing properly integrate with the surrounding material?
Look for
Why it matters: Flashing that isn't properly woven into the roofing material — including a missing kickout flashing at roof-to-wall junctions — is prone to leaking during wind-driven rain.
From the ground, do the roof valleys and the flashing where the roof meets walls look intact?
Look for
Why it matters: Valleys and roof-to-wall joints carry the most water on a roof and are the most common place leaks start. Look from the ground with binoculars — a valley patched only with caulk is worth a roofer's attention.
Are gutters free of damage and properly attached?
Look for
Why it matters: Sagging gutters often indicate clogged or overloaded sections that need attention.
Are gutters clear of debris?
Look for
Why it matters: Clogged gutters are a leading cause of water intrusion at the roofline and fascia.
Do gutters appear properly pitched to drain?
Look for
Why it matters: Poor pitch means gutters can't do their job even if they're otherwise in good shape.
Are the gutters firmly attached, with sound fascia and soffit behind them?
Look for
Why it matters: Gutters pull loose when the fascia they hang from starts to rot — often from the gutters overflowing. Catching it early keeps a small repair from becoming a trim-and-framing job.
Are downspouts intact and securely attached?
Look for
Why it matters: A disconnected downspout can dump water right next to the foundation instead of away from it.
Does water discharge at least a few feet away from the foundation?
Look for
Why it matters: Downspouts are generally expected to discharge water a few feet away from the foundation — where they discharge is one of the most common contributors to foundation moisture problems.
Are the downspouts fastened securely, with extensions carrying water away from the house?
Look for
Why it matters: A downspout that dumps water at the foundation is one of the most common causes of drainage and foundation problems. Getting the water a few feet away is cheap insurance and easy to see.
Is the masonry and flashing in good condition?
Look for
Why it matters: Chimney masonry deterioration can allow water intrusion into the surrounding roof structure.
Is the chimney crown and cap intact?
Look for
Why it matters: A damaged crown is a top entry point for water into the chimney structure.
Any visible creosote or excessive soot?
Look for
Why it matters: Significant creosote buildup is a fire hazard best evaluated by a certified chimney sweep.
Does the chimney rise well above the roofline, with a cap or spark arrestor on top?
Look for
Why it matters: A flue that's too short drafts poorly and can be a fire and carbon-monoxide concern; a spark arrestor keeps embers off the roof and animals out of the flue. Both are standard things a chimney pro can address.
Is airflow present and unobstructed at the roof vent?
Look for
Why it matters: Poor airflow undermines the whole point of the ventilation and can trap moisture.
Any physical damage or blockage?
Look for
Why it matters: Damage here often goes unnoticed until it causes a moisture or pest problem elsewhere.
Any signs moisture isn't being properly vented?
Look for
Why it matters: Trapped moisture from poor ventilation is a common precursor to mold growth.
Are the roof and gable vents screened and intact to keep animals and rain out?
Look for
Why it matters: Roof and attic vents need to move air but keep animals and wind-driven rain out. A missing screen is an open door for pests and nesting — an easy thing to spot and inexpensive to fix.
Is the overall roof structure free of visible damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Visible sagging or deflection can reflect damaged decking, framing, prolonged moisture, or overloading. Record the view and route it to a licensed inspector rather than trying to diagnose the cause.
From a safe ground-level view, does any roof section look deflected, shifted, or out of plane?
Look for
Why it matters: A roof shape that is visibly out of plane deserves professional evaluation. Ground-level observation cannot establish whether the cause is cosmetic, structural, or active.
Are there visible exterior signs of storm impact or a path where water could enter?
Look for
Why it matters: Storm damage and displaced flashing can create hidden leak paths. A safe buyer pre-screen can document the indicator, but a licensed inspector should determine extent and next steps.
26 inspection items
Can you locate and read the unit's data plate?
Look for
Why it matters: Age strongly predicts both efficiency and remaining service life. Older R-22 systems are worth noting too — that refrigerant is being phased out, so service and recharges have gotten more expensive over time even on a unit that's otherwise fine.
Is the insulation on refrigerant lines intact?
Look for
Why it matters: Damaged line insulation reduces efficiency; oily residue can indicate a refrigerant leak.
Is condensate draining properly?
Look for
Why it matters: A failed condensate system causes the same kind of ceiling or wall staining as a roof leak, just from indoor equipment instead — worth connecting the dots if you've noticed a ceiling stain nearby.
Is airflow consistent across the vents you can check?
Look for
Why it matters: Inconsistent airflow can point to duct issues or a failing blower motor. A register inside the garage is also worth a second look — it can potentially draw exhaust or stored fumes into the home's air.
Photograph the unit's data plate — does the panel breaker match the 'Max Fuse/Breaker' size it lists?
Look for
Why it matters: The outdoor unit's data plate lists the largest breaker or fuse the manufacturer built the equipment and its wiring to handle (labeled 'Maximum Fuse/Breaker' or 'Max Overcurrent Protection'). A breaker rated above that number won't trip when it should, so the circuit isn't protected to the manufacturer's specification. You can read the breaker's amperage right off its switch with the panel cover on and compare it to the plate — a photo of the data plate makes the comparison easy and gives a licensed electrician or HVAC pro exactly what they need to correct a mismatch.
Is the thermostat free of visible damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
Look for
Why it matters: A thermostat that does not reliably call for heating or cooling should be documented for an HVAC technician; do not remove the cover or troubleshoot wiring during this pre-screen.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
Look for
Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Are duct connections properly sealed?
Look for
Why it matters: Leaky ducts can waste a significant portion of a system's heating and cooling output.
Is duct insulation intact where present?
Look for
Why it matters: Damaged duct insulation in unconditioned spaces reduces efficiency and can cause condensation.
Any visible damage or crushed sections?
Look for
Why it matters: Physical duct damage restricts airflow and can force the system to work harder than it should. A duct sitting on the ground is also worth a note — it's exposed to more moisture than one that's properly suspended.
Where the ducts are visible, are they properly supported — not crushed, kinked, or sagging?
Look for
Why it matters: Ducts that sag, kink, or pull apart waste the conditioned air the system works to move, and unsupported runs eventually come loose. Note anything visibly crushed or disconnected for an HVAC pro.
Can you locate and read the unit's data plate?
Look for
Why it matters: Furnace age helps set expectations for remaining service life and efficiency.
Without opening an equipment panel, are there exterior warning signs or unusual odors while the unit runs?
Look for
Why it matters: Combustion problems can create carbon monoxide risk, but a heat exchanger cannot be evaluated safely from this buyer pre-screen. Record exterior warning signs and use a qualified HVAC professional for internal testing.
Without removing the access panel, is the panel secure and free of any visible sign that its safety switch was bypassed?
Look for
Why it matters: The interlock is a safety feature, but testing it requires removing an equipment panel. Record only what is already visible and leave functional testing to a qualified HVAC professional.
Are gas connections and shutoff intact, with no smell of gas?
Look for
Why it matters: IF YOU SMELL GAS: stop, leave the area immediately, don't operate any switches or electronics, and call the gas utility or 911 from a safe location outside. This is the one situation in this app that calls for immediate action, not just noting it for later.
Is the air filter clean and correctly installed?
Look for
Why it matters: A clogged filter is the single most common cause of reduced HVAC efficiency and premature wear.
Is refrigerant line insulation intact?
Look for
Why it matters: Damaged insulation on refrigerant lines reduces system efficiency and can cause condensation drips.
Any signs of a refrigerant leak?
Look for
Why it matters: Refrigerant leaks require a licensed technician to properly diagnose and recharge the system.
Where you can see them, are the refrigerant lines protected from damage and supported?
Look for
Why it matters: The larger refrigerant line should stay insulated, and both lines should be protected from physical damage. Kinks or missing insulation cut efficiency and can shorten the system's life — a straightforward thing to point out to an HVAC pro.
Without opening or removing any panel cover, is the outside of the electrical panel free of visible hazards?
Look for
Why it matters: Rust, scorching, heat, unusual sounds, or an existing opening can signal an electrical hazard. Never remove the deadfront or reach inside; internal wiring belongs to a licensed professional.
Is the panel somewhere reasonable, with clear space in front of it?
Look for
Why it matters: Panels aren't allowed in bathrooms, and they need clear space in front so they can be worked on safely in an emergency.
Is there a visible ground rod or bonding connection?
Look for
Why it matters: Grounding and bonding give an electrical fault a safe path to trip a breaker instead of energizing something a person could touch — it's foundational to the whole system's safety.
Without removing any panel cover, is the circuit directory visible and legible?
Look for
Why it matters: A readable circuit directory helps in an emergency. Confirming whether every label is accurate requires controlled testing and belongs to a qualified professional.
From exterior labels and branding only, can you identify the panel without opening or removing a cover?
Look for
Why it matters: Brand, age, service capacity, and wiring type can affect risk, but most of that evaluation is inside an energized enclosure. Record only exterior identifiers and leave internal evaluation to a licensed electrician.
Does the GFCI outlet trip and reset properly when tested?
Look for
Why it matters: A GFCI that doesn't trip properly is no longer providing shock protection, even though it looks normal.
Are GFCIs present everywhere required (wet or damp locations)?
Look for
Why it matters: Code-required GFCI locations exist specifically where shock risk is highest — it's a location-by-location requirement, not a one-and-done for the whole house.
Any visible wiring issues at the outlet?
Look for
Why it matters: Wiring issues at a GFCI can mean the protection isn't reaching the rest of the circuit as intended.
Is the outlet free of visible damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
Look for
Why it matters: A functional failure here often points to a loose connection that a licensed electrician should trace.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
Look for
Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Do three-prong outlets test as properly grounded and wired, using an inexpensive plug-in tester?
Look for
Why it matters: A three-prong outlet that isn't actually grounded gives a false sense of safety for electronics and shock protection. A cheap plug-in tester reveals grounding and polarity problems an electrician can correct.
Is the switch free of visible damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
Look for
Why it matters: A functional failure here often points to a loose connection that a licensed electrician should trace.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
Look for
Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Can you locate and read the data plate?
Look for
Why it matters: Water heater age is one of the single best predictors of near-term replacement need.
Any signs of leaking or corrosion at the tank or fittings?
Look for
Why it matters: A leaking water heater can fail suddenly and cause significant water damage.
Is the temperature/pressure relief valve properly piped?
Look for
Why it matters: The TPR valve is a critical safety device that prevents dangerous pressure buildup.
Is there a small expansion tank on the cold supply line?
Look for
Why it matters: An expansion tank absorbs pressure created as water heats up. Without one, that pressure has nowhere to go, which can shorten the life of the tank and its fittings.
Is the vent connected and properly pitched?
Look for
Why it matters: Improper venting on a gas unit can allow combustion gases to enter the living space. If you smell gas at any point, stop, leave the area, and don't operate any switches — call the gas utility or emergency services from outside.
Is the main shutoff easy to locate and access?
Look for
Why it matters: In an emergency, being able to quickly find and access the main shutoff can prevent significant water damage.
Without turning it, is the shutoff visibly free of leaks, corrosion, or damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Older shutoffs can leak or fail when operated. Record visible condition and ask the seller or a qualified plumber about functional testing instead of turning it during this pre-screen.
Does the main shutoff look operable, and is it labeled so anyone could find it fast?
Look for
Why it matters: In a leak, the main water shutoff is the valve you need immediately. Knowing it's reachable, looks operable, and is labeled is worth confirming now — don't force a stuck valve yourself.
Is the supply line free of visible corrosion or damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Corrosion at fittings is often the earliest visible warning sign of a coming leak.
Can you tell what the supply pipes are made of?
Look for
Why it matters: Polybutylene pipe has a well-known history of premature failure and was the subject of a large nationwide legal settlement in the 1990s. Older galvanized pipe corrodes from the inside over time. Both are worth asking about if you can identify them, even if nothing is currently leaking.
Any signs of active or past leaking?
Look for
Why it matters: Even a slow leak can cause significant hidden damage over months before it's noticed.
Does water flow and shut off properly?
Look for
Why it matters: Flow and shutoff issues are usually quick fixes if caught early, but can escalate if left alone.
Does the water pressure feel steady and comfortable — strong but not pounding — at the fixtures you can safely run?
Look for
Why it matters: Pressure that's low across several fixtures can point to corroded, undersized, or partly blocked supply piping, or a worn pressure regulator. Pressure that's too high quietly stresses every faucet, hose, valve, and the water heater and shortens their life — usually the pressure-reducing valve needs attention. An inexpensive gauge that threads onto an outdoor faucet tells you the number; a plumber can confirm the cause.
Can you find the home's own main sewer cleanout — a roughly 4-inch white PVC pipe with a screw cap, usually within about 5 feet of the foundation — and does the ground around it look dry and undisturbed?
Look for
Why it matters: The main cleanout is the access point a plumber uses to clear a blockage or camera-inspect the sewer line without digging. The home's own cleanout is the smaller (about 4-inch) white PVC pipe near the foundation; the larger (about 6-inch) pipe out by the street is the city's, and the two look alike. Knowing where the home's cleanout is — and that the cap is intact and reachable — matters most on the day a drain backs up. Odor or chronically wet ground around it can hint at a sewer-line problem; document it and let a licensed plumber open the cap, never open it yourself.
Is the drain line free of visible corrosion or damage?
Look for
Why it matters: Visible damage or residue at a drain joint can be an early sign of leakage. Record only exposed piping; hidden drain condition requires professional evaluation.
Can you identify any exposed drain or waste-pipe material without opening an enclosure?
Look for
Why it matters: Material and condition help a licensed inspector decide what additional drainage or sewer evaluation is appropriate. Appearance alone is not enough to identify concealed piping or remaining service life.
Any signs of active or past leaking?
Look for
Why it matters: Even a slow leak can cause significant hidden damage over months before it's noticed.
If the water is on, does each safely operated fixture drain without backing up or unusual noise?
Look for
Why it matters: Slow drainage, gurgling, or backup can indicate a local clog, venting problem, or a larger drain/sewer restriction. Do not diagnose it from one test; document it for a licensed inspector or plumber.
Is the smoke detector present and correctly located?
Look for
Why it matters: Placement matters as much as function — a detector in the wrong spot may not trigger in time.
Does it respond when tested?
Look for
Why it matters: This is one of the few checks in the app you can safely verify yourself with the built-in test button.
If there's more than one, do they all sound together when one is tested?
Look for
Why it matters: Newer homes are generally expected to have alarms that all sound together, so everyone in the house is warned no matter where the alarm started.
Is the power source current and reliable?
Look for
Why it matters: Detectors have a service life, typically 8-10 years, after which they should be replaced even if they still test fine.
Is the CO detector present and correctly located?
Look for
Why it matters: Placement matters as much as function — a detector in the wrong spot may not trigger in time.
Does it respond when tested?
Look for
Why it matters: This is one of the few checks in the app you can safely verify yourself with the built-in test button.
If there's more than one, do they all sound together when one is tested?
Look for
Why it matters: Newer homes are generally expected to have alarms that all sound together, so everyone in the house is warned no matter where the alarm started.
Is the power source current and reliable?
Look for
Why it matters: Detectors have a service life, typically 8-10 years, after which they should be replaced even if they still test fine.
Is the dishwasher undamaged and secured to the cabinet?
Look for
Why it matters: Visible damage, a torn door seal, or a unit that isn't anchored are easy things to spot and worth flagging — a dishwasher that tips out when the door drops open should be secured to the cabinet.
Does the dishwasher power on and run a full cycle?
Look for
Why it matters: A quick cycle confirms it runs, fills, and drains — a full diagnostic is a pro's job. If the dishwasher isn't conveyed with the sale, note that instead.
Any leaking, and is the drain set up correctly?
Look for
Why it matters: Leaks under the sink are easy to miss and often mean a worn seal or a drain that isn't installed to keep dirty water from siphoning back. Note what you see; a plumber can confirm the fix.
Is the cooktop surface, knobs, and anti-tip in good shape?
Look for
Why it matters: Surface cracks, missing knobs, and a missing anti-tip bracket are visible safety and damage items. The anti-tip bracket keeps a freestanding range from tipping over — a real injury risk worth checking for.
Does every burner heat or light and respond to its control?
Look for
Why it matters: Note any burner that won't heat or light; a clicking igniter that won't catch is common and worth flagging. Leave gas-flame adjustment to a pro.
If it's gas: is there a reachable shutoff, and no smell of gas?
Look for
Why it matters: Natural gas is a real safety issue. If you smell gas, don't operate the cooktop — leave it, air out the room, and have the gas utility or a licensed plumber check it. Never try to find a gas leak yourself. Just confirm there's a shutoff you can reach; the connector type is a pro's call.
Is the oven undamaged, and does the door seal and close?
Look for
Why it matters: A door that won't close or seal lets heat escape and is worth noting; a built-in oven should be secured in its opening.
Does it heat to temperature, with the light and controls working?
Look for
Why it matters: Letting it heat briefly confirms the oven and controls work. For a gas oven, the fuel shutoff and connector are checked with the Cooktop; a gas smell is a safety issue to report, not to diagnose yourself.
Is a freestanding range/oven anchored by an anti-tip bracket at the floor or wall?
Look for
Why it matters: Freestanding ranges ship with an anti-tip bracket so the unit can't tip forward when weight is put on an open oven door. It's a well-documented child-safety item that's often left uninstalled — worth confirming, and simple to add.
Is the microwave undamaged and securely mounted?
Look for
Why it matters: A damaged door, latch, or springs can affect safe operation and is worth flagging; interior arcing marks mean it needs a pro.
Does it power on, heat, and turn?
Look for
Why it matters: A basic run confirms it works; door-seal and radiation testing belong to a professional.
Is an over-the-range microwave solidly mounted, and do its fan and light work?
Look for
Why it matters: An over-the-range microwave is heavy and doubles as the cooktop's vent. A sagging mount is a safety point and a dead fan is what should be clearing steam and smoke — both are worth flagging.
Is the disposer free of leaks and cracks underneath?
Look for
Why it matters: Leaks under the sink are easy to miss and often point to a worn seal or a cracked housing that won't get better on its own.
Does the disposal turn on and run without jamming?
Look for
Why it matters: A quick on/off check catches a seized or dead motor — never put your hand in the disposal.
Is the wiring under the sink secured and protected?
Look for
Why it matters: The disposer's power connection is right there under the sink — loose or spliced wiring is a shock and fire concern a pro should correct.
Is the disposal firmly mounted to the sink, with its drain lines connected?
Look for
Why it matters: A disposal hangs from the sink drain, so a loose mount stresses the plumbing and can leak. Confirming it's solid and properly connected is a quick check — never put a hand inside.
Is the refrigerator free of visible damage and door-seal issues?
Look for
Why it matters: Door seals and any water underneath are common, easy-to-check signs of wear.
Is it running and cold in both the fridge and freezer?
Look for
Why it matters: Confirming it cools is a quick check; if the fridge isn't conveyed with the sale, note that instead.
If it has an ice maker or water dispenser, is the supply line and its valve dry?
Look for
Why it matters: The small valve and line feeding an ice maker are a common source of slow leaks that damage floors and cabinets before anyone notices. Check behind the fridge if you can reach it safely; a plumber can replace a weeping valve.
Is the hood undamaged, with its filter and controls in place?
Look for
Why it matters: A missing or grease-caked filter vents poorly and is a fire risk; damaged controls affect safe use.
Do the fan and light work, with real airflow?
Look for
Why it matters: Fan and light are a quick check; weak airflow can mean a clogged filter or a duct problem.
Where does it vent — outside, or just recirculating?
Look for
Why it matters: A hood that dumps greasy, moist air into the attic or a cabinet instead of outside can cause moisture and mold problems. Confirm where it vents; the duct material and roof-deck sealing are a pro's call.
Can you find the water meter and open the lid to read the dial?
Look for
Why it matters: The meter is where the city's water enters your property, and its dial doubles as a simple leak detector. Being able to find it and read it lets you check for hidden leaks and know where to look in a water emergency. A box that stays full of water or dirt can itself be a clue that something nearby is leaking.
With every faucet, toilet, and water-using appliance turned off, does the meter dial stay completely still?
Look for
Why it matters: A meter that keeps recording use when nothing inside is running is one of the clearest signs of a leak on the line between the meter and the house — often buried underground or beneath the slab. Spotting it now can save a large water bill and hidden damage; a plumber can pressure-test the line to confirm.
Is the ground around the meter and along the path to the house firm, level, and dry?
Look for
Why it matters: Sinking ground, a chronic wet streak, or an unusually lush green line can mean water is escaping from a buried supply line — sometimes the first outward sign of a slab or yard-line leak. It's worth asking a plumber to pressure-test the line before you buy, rather than digging or diagnosing it yourself.
A sub panel is a smaller second breaker box fed from the main panel — common in garages, additions, workshops, and near pools. Without opening or removing any cover, is each one free of visible hazards?
Look for
Why it matters: A sub panel carries the same shock and fire risks as the main panel but often hides in a garage corner or closet, so it gets looked at less. Never remove the deadfront or reach inside — the same outside-only warning signs apply. If the home has no sub panel, mark this item Not Inspected with "Component not present."
Is each sub panel somewhere reasonable, with clear space in front of it?
Look for
Why it matters: Like the main panel, a sub panel doesn't belong in a bathroom or clothes closet, and it needs clear working space in front so it can be reached quickly in an emergency and worked on safely.
Without removing any cover, is the sub panel's circuit directory visible and legible — and is it clear what the sub panel serves?
Look for
Why it matters: In an emergency you need to know which panel controls which part of the home. A readable directory on every panel — and knowing what each sub panel feeds — makes that possible. Confirming the labels are accurate requires controlled testing and belongs to a qualified professional.
Can you find the gas or propane meter outside and reach it, with the area around it clear?
Look for
Why it matters: The meter is where gas enters the property, and its main shutoff sits right there — so being able to find it and reach it is what makes it useful the day there's a problem. A meter blocked by shrubs, storage, or a locked gate is both an access and a safety issue worth flagging.
Is there a main gas shutoff valve at the meter, and does it look intact and reachable — without you operating it?
Look for
Why it matters: The valve at the meter is how the whole home's gas gets shut off in an emergency, so it needs to be present and reachable. Turning gas off and safely back on (relighting pilots) is a job for the utility or a licensed pro — record what you can see and leave operating the valve to them.
Is the meter and the pipe (riser) coming up from the ground free of heavy rust or damage, with no signs of a gas problem?
Look for
Why it matters: IF YOU SMELL GAS or hear hissing at the meter: stop, leave the area immediately, don't operate any switches or electronics, and call the gas utility or 911 from a safe location outside. Otherwise, just note visible rust or damage — the utility or a licensed plumber evaluates and services the meter set, never you.
Is the tank on a firm, level base and set back from the house, windows, and any ignition sources?
Look for
Why it matters: A propane tank needs a stable, level base and clearance from the home and anything that could ignite. A tilting tank or one hemmed in by brush, combustibles, or an ignition source is a safety and code concern worth flagging for the propane supplier.
Are the tank body, gauge, and regulator free of heavy rust or damage, with no smell of gas?
Look for
Why it matters: IF YOU SMELL GAS: leave the area, don't operate any switches or electronics, and call the propane supplier or 911 from a safe location. Otherwise, just note visible rust or damage — a licensed propane technician services the tank, valves, and regulator, never you.
Can you find the tank's main shutoff, and is it clear whether the tank is owned or leased?
Look for
Why it matters: Many propane tanks are leased from the supplier, which affects who you can buy gas from and who maintains the tank — worth confirming before you close. Find the main shutoff and note what you see; leave operating the valve and any leak testing to the propane company.
The app adds property-based local saving, photos, completion limits, and an organized report.
Try the AppYouInspect™ is buyer education and property pre-screening. It is not a licensed home inspection, does not determine that a property is safe, and does not replace an inspection by a licensed inspector. Patent Pending.