Free closing-day checklist
Recheck visible condition and basic operation before closing, document changes, and bring questions to your Agent and licensed inspector. Never enter an unsafe or inaccessible area.
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3 inspection items
Does the ground slope away from the foundation?
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Why it matters: Improper grading is one of the most common contributors to basement and crawlspace moisture.
Are drainage features (swales, drains) functioning?
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Why it matters: Functioning drainage features protect the foundation from water accumulation over time.
Does the ground slope away from the house, with no pooling against the foundation?
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Why it matters: Soil that carries water away from the foundation is one of the biggest factors in a dry, stable house. Low spots or a reverse slope against the wall are worth flagging before the next heavy rain.
If you have a water pressure gauge, what does it read at this faucet?
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Why it matters: Water pressure outside the normal range affects the whole home, not just this faucet — a hose-bib reading is a quick, convenient way to check it. A screw-on gauge from a hardware store is inexpensive and reusable across every property you look at.
Does the faucet turn on and off, with water flowing freely?
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Why it matters: Turning the faucet on and off is the most basic check that it works — the valve opens, water flows at a normal rate, and it shuts back off. Weak flow or a handle that won't control the water points to a worn valve, a partly closed supply, or a problem further up the line worth having a plumber look at.
Is the hose bib free of visible corrosion or damage?
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Why it matters: Corrosion at fittings is often the earliest visible warning sign of a coming leak.
Any signs of leaking when on or off?
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Why it matters: Even a slow leak can cause significant hidden damage over months before it's noticed.
Is there a vacuum breaker in place?
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Why it matters: A vacuum breaker keeps water (and anything mixed into it, like from a hose sprayer) from being siphoned back into the home's drinking water. Simple to add if missing.
Is the faucet firmly attached to the wall, without wobbling when you turn the handle?
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Why it matters: The pipe this faucet feeds runs inside the wall, out of sight. A loose, wobbling faucet flexes that hidden pipe every time it's used, and a crack there can leak inside the wall for a long time before it shows. Re-securing a loose faucet is usually a quick, low-cost fix.
Does the faucet look protected against freezing, with no signs of past freeze damage?
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Why it matters: Water left in an outdoor faucet can freeze, split the pipe, and then flood the wall when it thaws — a hard lesson many Texas homes learned in the 2021 freeze. A 'frost-free' faucet drains itself; an older standard one needs an interior shutoff or an insulated cover before a hard freeze. Knowing which kind the home has tells you what you'll need to winterize.
Is the exterior door free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.
Does the exterior door open, close, and latch properly?
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Why it matters: A door that doesn't operate smoothly often points to a settling frame or worn hardware. If more than one door in the house sticks the same way, it can also be worth mentioning alongside anything else you notice about the foundation.
Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?
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Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger energy and security issues if ignored.
3 inspection items
What should I look for?
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Why it matters: Damaged panels compromise insulation and security. Rot or rust can spread and lead to costly full-door replacement.
Does the opener raise and lower smoothly?
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Why it matters: A malfunctioning opener is a common repair item and can indicate worn gears or a failing motor.
Does the door reverse when it meets resistance?
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Why it matters: Auto-reverse is a critical safety feature. A failure here is a safety hazard, especially for households with kids or pets.
Is the seal intact along the bottom and sides?
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Why it matters: Worn weatherstripping lets in pests, water, and drafts, raising energy costs.
Does the emergency release cord work?
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Why it matters: The manual release is your fallback during a power outage or opener failure.
Are the tracks straight and rollers intact?
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Why it matters: Bent tracks or worn rollers cause premature door and opener wear.
Are the springs and cables free of damage?
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Why it matters: Springs and cables are under very high tension and are a well-documented serious injury hazard — this is one to flag for a professional, not adjust yourself.
Is the garage door opener free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
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Why it matters: A functional failure here often points to a loose connection that a licensed electrician should trace.
Are the sensors aligned and unobstructed?
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Why it matters: Misaligned sensors are a leading cause of door safety failures and are usually a quick, cheap fix.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
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Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Is the wall button mounted up high and where you can see the door?
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Why it matters: The wall button is meant to sit high — at least five feet up — and in clear view of the door, so a child can't run the door and no one operates it blind. A low or blind-spot button is a common, inexpensive thing to have relocated.
Is the opener and its rail fastened firmly overhead, not sagging or pulling loose?
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Why it matters: The opener and its rail hang overhead and take a hard pull every time the door runs. A unit sagging from the ceiling, or an arm pulling loose from the door, can eventually come down — it's usually a matter of re-securing the mounts before it gets worse.
Are the safety sensors mounted low near the floor and held firmly in place?
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Why it matters: The safety sensors only stop the door for a child or pet if they sit low — within about six inches of the floor — and stay put. This is separate from whether they're aligned: a sensor can be lined up but mounted too high to catch anyone. Missing, high, or loose sensors leave the door without its last line of protection.
Is the garage entry door free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.
Does the door close and latch on its own, without being pushed?
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Why it matters: This door is meant to slow fire and fumes from spreading from the garage into the home, so it's built to close itself. If it doesn't, that's worth asking about.
Does the door have a pet door or other cut-in opening?
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Why it matters: A cut-in opening can work against what this door is designed to do. Worth asking whether it was added after the door was installed.
Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?
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Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger issues if ignored.
8 inspection items
What's the overall condition of the ceiling?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
What's the overall condition of the wall?
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Why it matters: Surface condition is often the first visible sign of a problem underneath.
Any impact damage, holes, or structural cracking?
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Why it matters: Structural cracking patterns can indicate foundation movement, not just cosmetic wear. A single hairline crack is usually nothing to worry about — a pattern of several, or cracks paired with sticking doors and sloping floors, is more worth mentioning.
Any staining, discoloration, or soft spots?
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Why it matters: Moisture evidence found early is far cheaper to address than after mold or rot sets in.
Are floors free of significant damage?
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Why it matters: Flooring damage patterns can sometimes point to moisture issues underneath.
Do floors feel level and solid underfoot?
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Why it matters: Sloping or soft floors can indicate structural settling or subfloor damage worth a closer look — especially if it lines up with anything you noticed about the foundation.
Any signs of past or current moisture?
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Why it matters: Flooring is often where hidden moisture problems become visible first.
As you walk the floors, are they solid underfoot — no soft, springy, or bouncy spots?
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Why it matters: A soft or bouncy spot usually means the subfloor below has been weakened — commonly by a slow leak. Walking the floors and noting where they give is a simple check that points a pro to a hidden problem.
Is the interior door free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Door condition affects both security and how well the opening seals against weather.
Does the interior door open, close, and latch properly?
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Why it matters: A door that doesn't operate smoothly often points to a settling frame or worn hardware. If more than one door in the house sticks the same way, it can also be worth mentioning alongside anything else you notice about the foundation.
Are hinges, locks, and seals intact?
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Why it matters: Worn hardware and seals are inexpensive to fix now but lead to bigger energy and security issues if ignored.
Is the window free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Fogged glass usually means a failed seal between panes, which only gets worse over time.
Does it open, close, and lock properly?
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Why it matters: Operable windows matter for everyday use, but in a bedroom they also matter for getting out during an emergency. A painted-shut or barred bedroom window with no quick-release is worth flagging clearly, not just noting as a maintenance item.
Are the seals and caulking intact?
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Why it matters: Failed seals are a leading cause of water intrusion and energy loss around openings.
Is this window within 18" of the floor, near a door, or near a tub/shower?
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Why it matters: Certain locations require tempered (safety) glass so it breaks into small, dull pieces instead of sharp shards if broken. Worth asking whether this pane is safety-rated if it's in one of these spots.
Are cabinets free of significant damage?
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Why it matters: Water damage at the cabinet base often indicates a past or current plumbing leak nearby — this is exactly the kind of hidden leak that can go unnoticed longer than a visible drip, so it's worth a closer look at the plumbing underneath.
Do doors and drawers open and close properly?
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Why it matters: Function issues are usually minor, but worth noting for a buyer's overall impression of the kitchen.
Are the upper cabinets solidly attached to the wall, with no water damage under the sink?
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Why it matters: Loaded upper cabinets carry real weight, and the base cabinet under the sink is the first place a slow plumbing leak shows up. Both are easy to see and worth flagging early.
Are washer/dryer hookups present and in good condition?
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Why it matters: Hookup condition matters even when appliances themselves aren't included in the sale.
Is the dryer vent clear and properly terminated outside?
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Why it matters: Blocked or improperly vented dryers are a well-documented home fire risk.
Does the dryer vent end at an exterior hood with a flap that moves freely — and no lint screen over it?
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Why it matters: The exterior hood keeps out weather and pests while its flap lets exhaust escape; a screened, damaged, or lint-packed termination traps lint — a leading cause of dryer fires. If the vent ends in an attic, crawl space, or garage instead of outside, that's worth flagging for a professional.
Is the dryer duct smooth metal, intact, and connected all the way to the outside?
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Why it matters: Plastic and foil ducts and disconnected joints let lint and moist air escape into the house — both documented fire and mold risks. Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, connected end to end, is the safe setup.
Do the washer shut-off valves turn freely and stay dry, and can you reach them?
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Why it matters: Corroded valves and old rubber supply hoses are a leading cause of laundry-room flooding. A valve you can actually reach and fully close is your fastest way to stop a leak — so it's worth confirming they work and aren't buried.
Does the washer drain into a proper standpipe or drain, without backing up or overflowing?
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Why it matters: A washer dumps a lot of water fast, so it needs a real standpipe and trap to carry it away and keep sewer gas out. A drain that backs up or was rigged to the floor is a repeat-flooding and odor problem worth flagging.
Is the dryer's connection right for its type — a solid 240-volt outlet for an electric dryer, or a capped gas line with a shut-off for a gas dryer?
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Why it matters: Dryer circuits carry a heavy load and gas connections have to be leak-free, so a damaged outlet or an unshut-off gas line is a real fire or gas-safety concern. Note what you see and have an electrician or plumber confirm the connection — don't test a suspected gas leak yourself.
Is the laundry floor and surrounding area free of water damage — with a drain pan or floor drain if the laundry is upstairs?
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Why it matters: Laundry leaks often show up as floor or below-ceiling stains long before you spot the source. An upstairs laundry especially benefits from a drain pan, since a burst hose there can flood the rooms below.
Is the sink basin sound and securely mounted?
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Why it matters: A cracked basin or a sink pulling loose lets water reach the counter and the cabinet below, where damage stays hidden until it's costly. The caulk seal at the counter edge is a cheap fix that heads off exactly that.
Does the faucet — and the sprayer, if there is one — run, shut off, and stay leak-free?
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Why it matters: A faucet that drips when off wastes water around the clock, and a leak at the base can run behind the sink unnoticed. Low pressure at just this fixture usually points to the fixture itself; low pressure throughout the home points to something bigger worth asking about.
Does the sink drain well, and do the stopper and the shutoff valves work?
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Why it matters: Slow drainage can be a simple clog or a venting problem further down the line. Working shutoff valves under the sink matter more than they seem — without them, fixing any leak here means shutting off water to the whole house.
With the cabinet doors open, are there any leaks or water damage underneath?
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Why it matters: The cabinet under the sink is where kitchen leaks show up first — and a leak behind a closed door can run for months before anyone notices. It's worth actually opening the doors and looking at the base and the trap.
10 inspection items
Can you locate and read the unit's data plate?
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Why it matters: Age strongly predicts both efficiency and remaining service life. Older R-22 systems are worth noting too — that refrigerant is being phased out, so service and recharges have gotten more expensive over time even on a unit that's otherwise fine.
Is the insulation on refrigerant lines intact?
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Why it matters: Damaged line insulation reduces efficiency; oily residue can indicate a refrigerant leak.
Is condensate draining properly?
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Why it matters: A failed condensate system causes the same kind of ceiling or wall staining as a roof leak, just from indoor equipment instead — worth connecting the dots if you've noticed a ceiling stain nearby.
Is airflow consistent across the vents you can check?
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Why it matters: Inconsistent airflow can point to duct issues or a failing blower motor. A register inside the garage is also worth a second look — it can potentially draw exhaust or stored fumes into the home's air.
Photograph the unit's data plate — does the panel breaker match the 'Max Fuse/Breaker' size it lists?
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Why it matters: The outdoor unit's data plate lists the largest breaker or fuse the manufacturer built the equipment and its wiring to handle (labeled 'Maximum Fuse/Breaker' or 'Max Overcurrent Protection'). A breaker rated above that number won't trip when it should, so the circuit isn't protected to the manufacturer's specification. You can read the breaker's amperage right off its switch with the panel cover on and compare it to the plate — a photo of the data plate makes the comparison easy and gives a licensed electrician or HVAC pro exactly what they need to correct a mismatch.
Is the thermostat free of visible damage?
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Why it matters: Discoloration or melting near electrical components can indicate a serious fire risk. Exposed wiring is easy to spot but still a genuine hazard — don't assume it's minor just because it's easy to see.
Does it operate as expected when tested?
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Why it matters: A thermostat that does not reliably call for heating or cooling should be documented for an HVAC technician; do not remove the cover or troubleshoot wiring during this pre-screen.
Any obvious code or safety concerns?
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Why it matters: Electrical safety issues are one of the few categories where 'wait and see' isn't the right call.
Without opening or removing any panel cover, is the outside of the electrical panel free of visible hazards?
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Why it matters: Rust, scorching, heat, unusual sounds, or an existing opening can signal an electrical hazard. Never remove the deadfront or reach inside; internal wiring belongs to a licensed professional.
Is the panel somewhere reasonable, with clear space in front of it?
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Why it matters: Panels aren't allowed in bathrooms, and they need clear space in front so they can be worked on safely in an emergency.
Is there a visible ground rod or bonding connection?
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Why it matters: Grounding and bonding give an electrical fault a safe path to trip a breaker instead of energizing something a person could touch — it's foundational to the whole system's safety.
Without removing any panel cover, is the circuit directory visible and legible?
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Why it matters: A readable circuit directory helps in an emergency. Confirming whether every label is accurate requires controlled testing and belongs to a qualified professional.
From exterior labels and branding only, can you identify the panel without opening or removing a cover?
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Why it matters: Brand, age, service capacity, and wiring type can affect risk, but most of that evaluation is inside an energized enclosure. Record only exterior identifiers and leave internal evaluation to a licensed electrician.
Does the GFCI outlet trip and reset properly when tested?
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Why it matters: A GFCI that doesn't trip properly is no longer providing shock protection, even though it looks normal.
Are GFCIs present everywhere required (wet or damp locations)?
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Why it matters: Code-required GFCI locations exist specifically where shock risk is highest — it's a location-by-location requirement, not a one-and-done for the whole house.
Any visible wiring issues at the outlet?
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Why it matters: Wiring issues at a GFCI can mean the protection isn't reaching the rest of the circuit as intended.
Is the main shutoff easy to locate and access?
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Why it matters: In an emergency, being able to quickly find and access the main shutoff can prevent significant water damage.
Without turning it, is the shutoff visibly free of leaks, corrosion, or damage?
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Why it matters: Older shutoffs can leak or fail when operated. Record visible condition and ask the seller or a qualified plumber about functional testing instead of turning it during this pre-screen.
Does the main shutoff look operable, and is it labeled so anyone could find it fast?
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Why it matters: In a leak, the main water shutoff is the valve you need immediately. Knowing it's reachable, looks operable, and is labeled is worth confirming now — don't force a stuck valve yourself.
Is the smoke detector present and correctly located?
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Why it matters: Placement matters as much as function — a detector in the wrong spot may not trigger in time.
Does it respond when tested?
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Why it matters: This is one of the few checks in the app you can safely verify yourself with the built-in test button.
If there's more than one, do they all sound together when one is tested?
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Why it matters: Newer homes are generally expected to have alarms that all sound together, so everyone in the house is warned no matter where the alarm started.
Is the power source current and reliable?
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Why it matters: Detectors have a service life, typically 8-10 years, after which they should be replaced even if they still test fine.
Is the CO detector present and correctly located?
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Why it matters: Placement matters as much as function — a detector in the wrong spot may not trigger in time.
Does it respond when tested?
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Why it matters: This is one of the few checks in the app you can safely verify yourself with the built-in test button.
If there's more than one, do they all sound together when one is tested?
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Why it matters: Newer homes are generally expected to have alarms that all sound together, so everyone in the house is warned no matter where the alarm started.
Is the power source current and reliable?
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Why it matters: Detectors have a service life, typically 8-10 years, after which they should be replaced even if they still test fine.
Is the cooktop surface, knobs, and anti-tip in good shape?
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Why it matters: Surface cracks, missing knobs, and a missing anti-tip bracket are visible safety and damage items. The anti-tip bracket keeps a freestanding range from tipping over — a real injury risk worth checking for.
Does every burner heat or light and respond to its control?
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Why it matters: Note any burner that won't heat or light; a clicking igniter that won't catch is common and worth flagging. Leave gas-flame adjustment to a pro.
If it's gas: is there a reachable shutoff, and no smell of gas?
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Why it matters: Natural gas is a real safety issue. If you smell gas, don't operate the cooktop — leave it, air out the room, and have the gas utility or a licensed plumber check it. Never try to find a gas leak yourself. Just confirm there's a shutoff you can reach; the connector type is a pro's call.
Is the oven undamaged, and does the door seal and close?
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Why it matters: A door that won't close or seal lets heat escape and is worth noting; a built-in oven should be secured in its opening.
Does it heat to temperature, with the light and controls working?
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Why it matters: Letting it heat briefly confirms the oven and controls work. For a gas oven, the fuel shutoff and connector are checked with the Cooktop; a gas smell is a safety issue to report, not to diagnose yourself.
Is a freestanding range/oven anchored by an anti-tip bracket at the floor or wall?
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Why it matters: Freestanding ranges ship with an anti-tip bracket so the unit can't tip forward when weight is put on an open oven door. It's a well-documented child-safety item that's often left uninstalled — worth confirming, and simple to add.
Is the refrigerator free of visible damage and door-seal issues?
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Why it matters: Door seals and any water underneath are common, easy-to-check signs of wear.
Is it running and cold in both the fridge and freezer?
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Why it matters: Confirming it cools is a quick check; if the fridge isn't conveyed with the sale, note that instead.
If it has an ice maker or water dispenser, is the supply line and its valve dry?
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Why it matters: The small valve and line feeding an ice maker are a common source of slow leaks that damage floors and cabinets before anyone notices. Check behind the fridge if you can reach it safely; a plumber can replace a weeping valve.
The app adds property-based local saving, photos, completion limits, and an organized report.
Try the AppYouInspect™ is buyer education and property pre-screening. It is not a licensed home inspection, does not determine that a property is safe, and does not replace an inspection by a licensed inspector. Patent Pending.